A Year of Anniversaries

Mini Dress by Marilyn Brooks (Unicorn Label)

Mini Dress by Marilyn Brooks (Unicorn Label)

Before November, the month of Remembrance Day, slips away I am looking forward to creating events to remember in 2017. There are several anniversaries that we will be celebrating which will allow us to once again showcase items in our Fashion Resource Centre.

As a Canadian the celebration of the founding of our country in 1867 will be highlighted not only on Canada Day but throughout the year. Our first centennial celebrated in 1967 occurred in the midst of the “Youthquake” of the 1960s. (right, pink Mini Dress by Marilyn Brooks’ Unicorn label).

Canadian Designers who are well represented in our collection, Claire Haddad, Marilyn Brooks and Elen Henderson gained recognition with consumers and established some of the foundation and organizations that have continued to provide ongoing support for new fashion designers.

The late Claire Haddad showed her Canadian patriotism by featuring the (then) newly created Maple Leaf tartan which included all of the colours of the maple leaf transitioning from summer to fall. This green, gold, red and brown tartan was created by David Weiser of the Highland Queen company.

Tartan by David Weiser of the Highland Queen Company

Tartan by David Weiser of the Highland Queen Company

I look forward to seeing what our contemporary Canadian designers may produce to celebrate and highlight their patriotism as we celebrate 150 years of our wonderful country.

One of the initiatives sparked by the centennial of the country was the establishment of our community college system. 2017, then is also the 50th anniversary of Seneca College. Its original mandate was to provide an alternate path to university, providing post secondary education in fields that were often quite specialized but not serviced by any university. One of the first graduating classes at Seneca College was in Fashion and over the 50 years we have seen the programs within our School of Fashion expand to prepare graduates for the fields of Cosmetics, Esthetics, Visual Merchandising, Floral Design and Event Design. I am pleased to have been a product of this education system, graduating from my first program in 1976 and as a member of the School of Fashion for many years.

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Thanks to the foresight of my colleagues Claire Becker, Bev Newburg, Caroline Routh and many more, we established our Resource Centre more than 25 years ago. We will be able to support the celebrations of this anniversary with displays of the fads and fashions that graced the halls during that first decade and for those of the following four.

2017 marks the 60th anniversary of Fashion Group International’s Toronto chapter. This organization has been a volunteer operated association that has worked tirelessly to support its members and the Fashion industry in Toronto. They mentor new members, provide networking opportunities and highlight the contributions the fashion industry provides to society in general.

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We have had wonderful links with Fashion Group International and its members over the decades as we share many of the same supporters. Many of those early supporters of Fashion Group (Marilyn Brooks, Claire Haddad, Shirley Cheatley of Elen Henderson designs) were on the early committees that helped establish our Resource Centre. Many of these members have also contributed through donations made to the Centre. We will be working with FGI to help highlight their anniversary too.

In 1947 Christian Dior’s “New Look” brought haute couture to the world but also made the house a name synonymous with fashion. The 70th anniversary of the house will certainly be a cause for celebration.

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Last December we welcomed Severine Breton from Christian Dior Paris to research and photograph the “Diors” of our collection. The house was searching to find the Dior items which have been preserved at various museums throughout the world and is working on a book to celebrate this auspicious anniversary. We happily provided the items within our collection for examination and were very grateful to receive from Dior information that we have added to our research files about the designs. Included in the information were copies of some original files showing sketches, design names and fabric swatches. While each of the garments in our Centre has had information catalogued from the donor about the items having additional information directly from the designer and/or the house increases the information we can provide researchers in the future.

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Each succeeding year seems to bring with it an array of diverse tasks and opportunities for our collection, but clearly, 2017 will be a year beyond the norm.

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Fall Fashion Field Trips

Thanksgiving weekend is almost upon us and the lovely fall weather might be double the encouragement for a little fashion field trip.

There are some wonderful exhibitions in full swing that you will want to catch before they, like the fall leaves, disappear. The Fashion History Museum in Hespler makes for a lovely and not too distant drive to the west of the city.  Their exhibit: “Wild and Rare: Fashion and Endangered Species” which opened October 6th in Gallery 1 includes a few pieces from our Fashion Resource Centre.  We’ve provided a purse with Kangaroo fur as well as an ocelot coat.

The “200 years of Wedding Attire Exhibition” is awash in all shades of white and some beautiful bridal pieces.  This exhibition runs until December 18, 2016.

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If you are already west of the city, the Guelph Museum is just a few minutes away from the Fashion History Museum and is celebrating the fashion career of Lady Lucille Duff Gordon. Originally from the Guelph area, Lady Duff survived the Titanic and is remembered for “inventing” the fashion show as well as the Merry Widow, wide brimmed hats so popular at the turn of the twentieth century.

The garments on display are truly amazing because they are so incredibly delicate. And, perfectly feminine and appropriate for the “Lady” of the times.

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Many of the garments are fragile and one beautiful piece is carefully presented lying flat so no further damage can occur.

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Lucille also did designed costumes for many theatre companies including the Ziegfeld Follies.

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Some of Lady Duff’s original design sketches are on display and show the silhouette of the period.

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Also on display is a depiction of the sinking of the Titanic by fabric artist John Willard. It contains the names of all the passengers and officers including Lucile, and her husband Cosmo.

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The exhibition is there until November 13th. For more details:

http://guelphmuseums.ca/event/lucile-fashion-titanic-scandal/

Although not technically “fashion” the Dale Chihuily glass exhibition at the ROM is a masterful use of colour, texture and pattern that needs to be experienced! There is a wonderful “room” in the midst of the exhibition with a literal glass ceiling, and comfy “pillows” on the floor that allows visitors to take in the display in comfort.

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On until January 2, 2017.

Our favourite shoe museum, The Bata has “The Curious History of Men in Heels” exhibition until May of next year. It shows a range of outstanding men’s shoes from the 1800’s beautiful shoes worn by members of the aristocracy to the rhinestone encrusted platforms of Elton John. The exhibit certainly tells a tall tale.

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I think we are so fortunate to live in a city and province that provides such “feasts” for the soul in the museum exhibitions available to us. Enjoy your fall fashion field trips!

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Claire Haddad: A Canadian Fashion Icon (1924-2016)

Claire Haddad (1924-2016)

Claire Haddad (1924-2016)

By Dale Peers

It is with sadness that I write this blog and offer condolences to the family of Canadian fashion legend, Claire Haddad.  Claire passed away on Tuesday May 17th just two months to the day of what would have been her 92nd birthday.  Claire was a “force majeur” in the Canadian Fashion industry.  With her husband, Albert Haddad’s love and support Claire produced designs from the 1960s to the 1980s and ran a successful fashion company in Canada.  Her beautiful and fashionable lounge and sleepwear created an entire new category of women’s fashions, “At Homewear”.    Claire believed that a woman should feel elegant and comfortable at home where the most important people in her life were. In addition she pioneered the idea of bringing loungewear outside of the home for elegant eveningwear to the theatre, balls and cocktail parties.

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Fashion by Claire Haddad

Over the years I had the great good fortune to meet with Claire several times and each time it was a delight to speak with this incredible woman.  She was so proud of all her family and spoke of them often.  Her beloved husband Albert was also top of mind in our conversations.  When they say “behind every great man is a great woman” Claire would have flipped that to describe the tremendous support and encouragement Albert provided her.

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Fashion by Claire Haddad

Claire and Albert were passionate about the Canadian fashion industry.  Claire often told me about her choice of fabrics.  That she looked for beautiful fabrics in Canada and when she did import something she infused an aspect of Canada into the production by having artists create some of the unique painting on the silks that were then used in the fashions.  She loved colour and elegance and embodied that in her own stylish self.  Whenever she came to visit, to attend our annual Fashion Show, Fashion Resource Centre exhibitions or student award presentations she wore a fashionable outfit topped with a beautiful hat.

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Fashion by Claire Haddad

Elizabeth Taylor, Cyd Cyrisse, Mary Tyler Moore and Carol Burnett were just a few of the celebrities she dressed.  The gown for Elizabeth Taylor presented a challenge – Taylor refused to be measured so Claire asked to have a bra belonging to the actress smuggled out so she could create the perfect garment!

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Fashion by Claire Haddad

Her work was recognized by members of the press as well as her peers. Claire was the first Canadian designer to be recognized in international publications such as Women’s Wear Daily and Vogue Magazine.  She won a Coty Award which was the equivalent of a fashion Oscar as well as six Canadian Edee awards.   Her contribution to the Canada was also recognized when, in 1979 she received the Order of Canada.

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Fashion by Claire Haddad

Claire’s contribution to the Canadian Fashion industry exceeded the bounds of her successful company as she was actively involved in the establishment and as a member of organizations such as Fashion Group International – Toronto chapter and the Fashion Designers Association of Canada (FDAC).

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Fashion by Claire Haddad

When Seneca College began the Fashion Resource Centre in 1989 Claire was front and centre as both a volunteer and donor.  Our Fashion Resource Centre has been gifted with so many of her lovely designs and each term our students are astounded by the beauty of the fabrics, the embellishments and the creative design details.

The Albert and Claire Haddad Fashion Award each year recognizes the efforts of a student in the School of Fashion and Claire was always graciously present when the student would be recognized.  The students were always grateful to receive an award but were even more excited to meet Claire in person.  As excited as the students were some were also shy.  Each time Claire made them feel so special since she talked with them about their work and hers.  The experience of winning such an honour became an extraordinary moment in their lives.

Claire led an extraordinary life that one can only aspire to.  It included love, family, integrity, generosity, creativity and a legacy that allows others to be inspired well into the future.

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Fashion by Claire Haddad

Claire Haddad visiting Seneca

Claire Haddad visiting Seneca

Fashion Resource Centre Book Launch

By Dale Peers

What a wonderful crowd came to out to celebrate at The Spoke Club in Toronto the launching of two new cross disciplinary projects.  The one that I am most proud of is our Fashion Resource Centre book!

Book Cover

Book Cover

The project was completed in an incredibly short period of time and would not have been possible without the vision of our Dean of the Faculty of Communication, Art and Design, Michael Maynard and the students who were (almost) as excited as I was to embark on this project. The students from the Corporate Communications post-graduate certificate (Laura Kelly, Kate Knight, Chantelle Ormond and Hillory Renkema) were mentored by Professor Tom Bartsiokas who I also had the great good fortune of working with on this project. Tom managed not one but two projects – this and the Art Collection Seneca @ York book. We spent many hours choosing photos, editing my descriptions and deciding where to place the most pithy comments from donors, alumni, students, designers and industry experts.

Sample pages from book

Sample pages from book

Also on our committee/support team was Chair of the School of Fashion Gitte Hansen who lent her excellent eye and assisted the students in contacting many of the industry experts who made such lovely quotes an extra special element of the book.

Snapshot of garment

Snapshot of garment

Working with photography student Roberto Vazquez and graphic designer Lily Nguyen was delightful and has resulted in a “look book” that far surpassed anything I could have imagined.

Dress from Seneca Fashion Resource Centre

Dress from Seneca Fashion Resource Centre

I am thrilled to have been given the time by Michael and Gitte to work on this project which allows us to show the incredible and unique Resource Centre we have at SenecaCollege. I know the books are disappearing quickly, and can only hope that this means we will have an opportunity to begin Volume II.

Next year is the 50th anniversary of Seneca College and the 150th anniversary of our country. I already have a list in mind of garments that would be a wonderful celebration and tribute to these two special milestones.

Seneca Fashion Resource Centre

Seneca Fashion Resource Centre

A Canadian Fashion Story: Pat McDonagh

March 12 – April 24 – Fashion History Museum, Hespler
May 2nd to 6th – Seneca College, Newnham Campus at The Boutique, B2024.

This year’s annual Fashion Resource Centre spring exhibition is another first for Seneca College! Last year our friends at the Fashion History Museum (FHM), Jonathan Walford and Kenn Norman, contacted me about the possibility of a joint project. The family of the late Pat McDonagh had approached the FHM about a donation of Ms. McDonagh’s fashions and archives and the concept of showcasing a retrospective of this Canadian designer’s work began.

The exhibition would include garments already in the Fashion History Museum’s collection, a selection of the new donations as well as some from our Seneca Fashion Resource Centre and the Ryerson Fashion collection.

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Image courtesy of the Fashion History Museum

Although born in England, Pat McDonagh immigrated to Canada with her husband as he had taken a position with the CBC in 1966. Having experienced the London Fashion scene as a model, designer and retailer she became part of the “British Invasion” along with the Beatles, Twiggy and the mini-skirt when she settled in Toronto.

Her biographical information states that, while in London, she was involved (possibly through her husband’s work in broadcasting) in providing fashion styling details and designs for The Beatles as well as prominent ‘60s actress Diana Riggs who played the character Emma Peel of The Avengers.

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Image from Fanpop.com

One of the garments she is said to have designed for Ms. Riggs’ character is a plasticized python coat with large silver buckle. This is one of the earliest pieces from our Pat McDonagh collection and was donated by former Toronto model, Donna DiMarco.

From Seneca Fashion Resource Centre

From Seneca Fashion Resource Centre

When she moved to Toronto she was not especially impressed with the fashions or fabrics being worn on our streets. She soon opened a retail store called The Establishment and began providing more current options for the 60’s fashionistas of Canada. She produced all product categories including day wear, evening gowns and fashion garments for businesses such as those worn by the staff at the CN Tower in Toronto.

A strong supporter of fashion designers, McDonagh was co-founder of the Fashion Design Council of Canada (FDCC) with Robin Kay. Her fashion career of 40+ years was recognized many times with awards including the New York Times award for Design Excellence, 1982, the Judy Award for Contribution to the Canadian Fashion Industry (1992) a Matinee International Award (2002) and FDCC Lifetime Achievement Award (2003).

The retrospective of her design work will encompass garments from 1967 to 2014. Ms. McDonagh passed away in Toronto on May 31, 2014.

The exhibition will move from the Fashion History Museum to Seneca College and be open to the public from Monday May 2nd until Friday May 6th.

Image from Fashion Resource Centre

Image from Fashion History Museum

New Year, New You?

One of the many advantages of working in an academic institution is a minimum of at least two New Years! We have the academic year which traditionally begins in September as well as the calendar year. This gives us the opportunity to have fresh experiences and new beginnings in general and more specifically with the start of the study of new courses.

For our Fashion Resource Centre, this means opening the doors and the drawers for a new group of students. Decisions must be made from an educational perspective about which items need to be brought into the different classrooms to best illustrate the concepts of the course.
And, we know that the fashion world is all about “new.” And yet, as they say, “Everything old is new again.” As our design students look for inspiration, the garments we have on display rotation may initiate the spark of a new idea.

Inspiration can certainly be found in our zeitgeist. Our students look to the world around them for ideas. Will, for example, the current slate of movies rouse interest in revivals of not just vintage fashion but new fashion?

Carol, Image from

Carol, Image from imdb.com

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Sherlock: The Abominable Bride, Image from www.cinefilos.it

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Gods of Egypt, Image from Daily Mail

Will seeing Roger’s and Hammerstein’s Cinderella or the Turner exhibition at the AGO provide a colour story or thematic inspiration?

Toronto Theatre, Image from www.toronto-theatre.com

Toronto Theatre, Image from www.toronto-theatre.com

Image from www.ago.net

Image from www.ago.net

And, as we embark on a new year the making of resolutions may be an opportunity for new ideas. Often these resolutions have to do with improving our bodies through diet and exercise or becoming more concerned with our health. It is interesting to note that as human beings we often incorporate our appearance into the resolution, whether it is a revision of that appearance or an announcement of having met a particular goal. We often want to communicate through our appearance an important life change. The adoption of a new wardrobe, style, even a new haircut is a subtle (or not so subtle) message that we send to the world.

For women in the past their wardrobe and fashion style would help to communicate a change in status – from girl to young woman; from bride to wife and mother.

From Childhood to Young Woman:

Left: Girl's dress from SFRC; Right: Women's dress from SFRC

Left: Girl’s dress from SFRC; Right: Women’s dress from SFRC

The seasons could be marked with the purchase of a new hat.

Left: Spring Hat, Right: Winter Hat

Left: Spring Hat, Right: Winter Hat

Even the time of day could be identified by the type of dress worn.

Left: Tea Dress, Middle: Day Dress, Right: Evening Dress

Left: Tea Dress, Middle: Day Dress, Right: Evening Dress

What have you planned for this New Year? Are you part of the group embarking on a new area of study? Has something in our zeitgeist inspired the desire for a new career or lifestyle change? Have you a resolution that you are working on and does it involve your appearance? What has inspired this change? Would love to hear from you…simply write in the comments.
Whatever awaits I wish you a Happy, Inspired New Year!

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Through the Looking Glass: Servants’ Appearance – a Reflection of the Upper Classes

by Rhonda Roth, Collections Librarian, Seneca College 

Mr. Carson, Mr. Barrow and Mrs. Patmore to name a few of our favourite characters/servants in the television show Downton Abbey (now, sadly in its last season) tell us a great deal about their position in society, without uttering a single word.  One simply has to observe what they are wearing.

All servants of the time wore some kind of distinguishing “uniform” which served as a useful reminder of status boundaries between employer and servant. It was imperative to the class conscious late- nineteenth and early- twentieth century employer that a servant be immediately recognizable as just that, but, it was carried even further to distinguish servant from servant within the stratified hierarchy “below stairs” as well.

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Servants

The premier show of Downton Abbey was set in 1912 with the tragic sinking of the Titanic dominating the events of the plot. This was the Edwardian era which stands out as a time of peace and plenty until the onset of World War 1 in 1914. But for many people, it was a time of shocking levels of poverty. A report written by Benjamin Rowntree on the slums of the town of York that came out in 1901 (Maloney 4) noted that 28% of the population was living in intolerable hardship. By this time, 1 in 4 people were domestic servants, mostly women who worked seven days a week from as early as 5am to 10pm for very little money. And yet, this was considered a reasonable alternative to the slums and gave some a certain amount of social status, especially if they worked in a home like Downton Abbey where they were housed and fed.

No matter the prestige of such a demanding job, a visible distinction in appearance was seen as crucial by their employers. Butlers, like Mr. Carson, were the highest ranking official servant in the house. They were responsible for running the house. It was customary in the early 19th century for employers to give butlers and other menservants, like Mr. Bates, their cast-off clothes but at the same time to make sure that the resulting outfit was never quite ‘correct’. The tie was not quite right with the coat or the coat was slightly out of fashion. A butler looked like a gentleman’s gentleman but not a gentleman in his own right. In the case of Mr. Carson, he wears a black suit so that he is slightly differentiated from other upper level male servants, and thus displays a visible signal of his superior status.

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From Downton Abbey, Footmen

The footman, like the incorrigible Thomas Barrow, was the most visible and splendid of the servants in a large Edwardian home, an adornment whose chief job was waiting at table, polishing dishes and supervising the rooms and activities of the lady of the house. Footmen reflected the wealth and class of the family, and tall, good-looking young men were quickly promoted to this position in the best households. A six-foot footman could expect to be paid more than a shorter one. Appearance seemed to be everything and some ambitious footmen made use of special pads to make their calves appear shapelier.

A whole coterie of maids would work in a home the size of Downton Abbey such as a housekeeper, lady’s maids, parlour maids, a head house maid, a nursery maid, chamber maids, laundry maids and lower on the totem pole would be the scullery and between maids. Maids who were most visible wore cotton print dresses in the morning to do the dirty work of cleaning the house and then changed to a uniform of black dress, turned-down white collar and cuffs, and muslin cap with or without streamers and bib-apron in the afternoon when, most importantly, guests came to call. Physical appearance, once again, was of considerable importance. Those maids possessing tall, trim figures were in far greater demand than short, stout individuals due to their perceived more graceful movements when waiting at table. Taller maids were favoured and could garner a higher wage just due to this advantage. Short girls were destined to be firmly below stairs or employed in poorer households.

Cooks, like Mrs. Patmore, had an important role in providing good food to the family and visitors but were not as visible and so usually wore washing dresses and white aprons, with coarse ones for cleaning purposes. Cooks did not always wear caps, except in houses where they were expected to answer the front door.

Uniforms or work dresses were rarely supplied to female servants and if they were, were taken out of their meagre wages. Boots were also expected to be provided by the maids themselves and as one girl in Somerset reported in 1913, her shoes cost an entire first month’s wages. In contrast to the more visible lady’s maids and parlour maids was the lowly “tweeny” maid or scullery maid like Daisy, who was often as poorly dressed as unskilled labourers because there was no fear of anyone seeing her slaving away downstairs in the kitchen.

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From Seneca Fashion Resource Centre, Footwear

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Servant

In highly- class conscious industrial societies, even accessories like hats were enormously important as signals that claimed or maintained social status. There are instances of maids instructed not to wear hats in church on Sundays but to wear identifying bonnets in case they should be mistaken for one of the family. Even personal choices like facial hair for menservants were discouraged while their employers wore the latest fashions in whiskers of the time. All of this points to the extreme social control and institutionalized separation of spheres that was imposed on working class employees. This is aptly captured in The Duties of Servants (1890), a bible for managing a household of servants, which warns lady’s maids to “never to dress out of your station as a servant: for your knowledge of stuffs, trimmings and fashions, gives you the means of doing this more successfully than any other servant.” (Lethbridge 41).

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From the Seneca Fashion Resource Centre – Upper class Edwardian woman’s hat

 

As Downton Abbey progresses into the interwar years and winds down in the 1920’s, we see the sun beginning to set on the lavish lifestyle of the Edwardian period with its wide range of appropriately dressed servants. Labour-saving devices, alternative sources of employment for women and increased wages began to shape the view that multiple servants for every task was an extravagance save for all but the biggest houses to have. Women were attracted to the new options for work that were less demeaning and didn’t require the wearing of the hated servant’s uniform of starched cap and apron. Although it would take until WWII to radically diminish the numbers of servants, dressed to reflect their place in the hierarchy was a thing of the glorified or horrified part of the past, depending on the level of the stairs you were looking at it from.

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From Seneca Fashion Resource Centre, Upper Class Dress

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Servant’s Dress

Works Cited

Lethbridge, Lucy. Servants. A Downstairs View of Twentieth-century Britain. London:
Bloomsbury Publishing Plc., 2013. Print.

Maloney, Alison. Life Below Stairs: True Lives of Edwardian Servants. New York: St.
Martin’s Press, 2012. Web. 5 Nov. 2015.

Author Bio

Rhonda Roth is Editor of the Fashion Resource Centre Blog & Liaison Librarian at Seneca College. She is a devotee of the history of fashion and Downton Abbey.

 

It’s a Rarity

What qualifies as rare in fashion?  Is it the singular genius of a designer’s work?  Is it the incredible delicacy of hand embroidered cotton or lace?  Is it the one-of-a-kind couture garment? We certainly have our share of beautifully designed, constructed and embellished garments in The Fashion Resource Centre Collection.  And many of these have been lovingly preserved by their owners or their owner’s descendants before making there way to us.  Ceremonial garments like christening gowns, graduation robes, bridal attire and formal wear, such as tuxedos, fall easily into this category.

I would agree that all of these qualify as rare but there is another, often overlooked classification of rare fashion: those items which we rarely see.

In our collection I believe some of the rare pieces are those that we preserved while others of the same category have been discarded.  If you think about what you have in your closet that you never seem able to send off to a Value Village or consignment store, what would it be?

Would you save underwear?  Would you save a ski suit you wore 15 years ago?  Would you save the maternity clothing you wore?  How about a simple day dress?

These are some of the pieces that I consider to be rare.  The everyday garments that we might describe as ordinary, but which are actually quite interesting to someone studying the clothing worn by members of a society decades ago.

These pieces are part of our Zeitgeist.  They reveal details of the people who have worn them.  The activities they engaged in and the type of clothing that may have been required either physically or socially.  They may illustrate the decorative arts popular in a particular period.  And, they may reveal the social position of the individual wearing them.

In a future blog my colleague Rhonda Roth has chosen to explore one such group of individuals who played an integral role in society in earlier centuries.

These are images of what I consider are rare garments within our collection.

Hope you enjoy!

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A woolen, one piece bathing suit from the 1920s

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A hand crochet vest for a “love-child” of the 60’s/70’s

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Maternity wear from the 1950s

A day suit from the 1920s with an icon Art Deco pattern (and square, not round buttons!)

A day suit from the 1920s with an icon Art Deco pattern (and square, not round buttons!)

Slow Down Fast Fashion

Browsing through a magazine today,  I came across what is not really news, nor a really a new movement but one that has become more a part of the way we are choosing to eat.  The article discussed the concepts of dining close to where the chef has a farm, or “farm-to-table” and savvy shoppers who fill their grocery carts with food that is not only wholesome, organic and good for them but is produced in a way that is good for animals and the environment alike.  You too may know the concept of sustainability as one that has become trendy in the food world.

What has this to do with fashion?  The concept of fashion and sustainability is also one that is not really news but has begun to become a movement that will hopefully become as important to us as the attention we are paying to feeding our bodies.

It is important to remind ourselves that there are 7 billion people currently on earth,  and the vast majority made up of societies who deem wearing clothing a necessity,therefore  the fashion industry is as important to humans as the food industry.  One of the inherent characteristics of fashion is that it involves change.  And, as so many people tell us – “Change is Good!”  This adage might help someone who is balking at the idea of accepting a new technology into their business lives, but is a motto that few fashionistas need to be given?

The speed of change is something else that we should examine.  If change is good does it necessarily mean that it must occur immediately?  Our initial answer may likely be a resounding yes!  We seem to have little patience anymore for the light to turn green, for the song to upload, for the app to open.  We want everything to happen quickly and no better example of that in the fashion world is what has been deemed “Fast Fashion”.

Fast fashion has certainly contributed to a fashion addiction for many.  The need to have the newest and trendiest is not necessarily a new concept but the possibility of that being available to anyone with $14.99 is what has enabled us to become the ultimate consumers.

Gobbling up a new product every two to three weeks was not possible, even five years ago.  Slow fashion meant that there were new fashions but it took much longer for those trends to diffuse through society.  The production of merchandise was slower and I would suggest it was better for this lack of speed.  The quality of the product was definitely superior to some of the merchandise available to us today.  This superiority also meant that the longevity of the product was assured.

In the not so far off past, there were items in everyone’s closet that they kept for years because the style was deemed to be classic.  The LBD as proposed by Coco Chanel is a perfect example.  Our Fashion Resource Centre has many wonderful examples of these Little Black Dresses for exactly that reason – they were classic, could be worn for a number of different occasions and by more than one person in the family!

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Dresses from Seneca Fashion Resource Centre

In examining some of today’s fast fashions, there are few that I could say “need” to be added to our Fashion Resource Centre. In fact, I’m not sure that they would ever make it to the collection as the quality of the product is so poor that it is likely to be discarded by a wearer rather then them thinking it would make a good donation.

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Dress from Seneca Fashion Resource Centre

Earlier periods in the history of fashion production attempted to create patterns that would be as economical in the use of the fabric as possible. During WWII “Utility Dressing” was a movement of British fashion designers to create fashionable and utilitarian garments for women during a period when rationing was required. Today the wastefulness to be found not only in the cutting of fabric but in the use and pollution of natural resources is appalling.

Customers paid dearly for the garments they purchased in times past and this might have been one of the reasons for the slower diffusion of fashion trends. They paid for the artistry of the designers as well as the producers of the actual garment. Today, men, women and children are paid wages that are as close to slave labour as it is possible to be. And, these business practices are fueled in part by the consumers who demand low prices and fast fashion.

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It is not simply the Little Black Dresses that prove interesting in the study of fashion. The attention to detail that designers and manufacturers considered important to their reputation as well as to the comfort of their clients is important to examine. When we look at the care to ensure that each tiny pleat has been added with mathematic precision to add the desired fullness to a skirt or the exacting placement of each bead, rhinestone and thread in the embroidery of a gown we admire not only the symmetry, the decoration and the artistry but the passion that fueled the need to create such a thing of beauty.

Although we have the ability to create fast fashion there is a need, and hopefully a desire among designers and consumers to pause and consider the value of slow fashion. The fashion industry needs to feed the soul with the beauty of a unique garment, lovingly created and done so with the least impact on human beings and the endangered environment.

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Fashion Exhibitions – Summer 2015

If you are planning any trips this summer and are looking for Fashion Exhibitions here is a list of just a few to consider.

The Fashion History Museum, Hespler, Ontario

Fashion History Museum

Johnathan Walford, left, and Kenn Norman of the Fashion History Museum posing in front of the old Hespeler Post Office. Image from www.therecord.com

About 45 minutes from Toronto and housed in the town’s original Post office the Fashion History Museum will open the end of June.  Jonathan Walford and Kenn Norman have been working on this labour of love of all things fashion history for at least 10 years, and have been welcomed by the town of Hespler.

One of the opening exhibitions will feature the 1980s, and our Fashion Resource Centre has been happy to loan a few of our very glam 1980s pieces to the FHM for this exhibit.

1980s jumpsuit from the Seneca Fashion Resource Centre

1980s jumpsuit from the Seneca Fashion Resource Centre

The Bata Shoe Museum, Toronto, Ontario:

Bata Shoe Museum, Standing Tall exhibit, Image from www.batashoemuseum.ca

Bata Shoe Museum, Standing Tall exhibit, Image from www.batashoemuseum.ca

2015 marks the 20th anniversary of The Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto.  The latest exhibition moves on from Fashion Victims to Standing Tall: The Curious History of Men in Heels.  And it looks at who has worn high heels: ” From privileged rulers to hyper-sexualized rock stars this provocative exhibition will explore the history of men in heels from the early 1600s to today, delving into the use and meanings of heeled footwear in men’s dress over the last four hundred years.”  This exhibit will run until June of 2016.

The Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Ontario:

¡Viva México! Clothing and Culture exhibit, Image from www.rom.on.ca

¡Viva México! Clothing and Culture exhibit, Image from www.rom.on.ca

¡Viva México! Clothing and Culture in the Patricia Harris Gallery of Textiles and Costume examines the rich textile history of Mexico.  “Over 150 stunning historic and contemporary pieces are on display, including complete costume ensembles, sarapesrebozos, textiles, embroidery, beadwork and more.”This exhibit runs until May 23, 2016

Museum of Vancouver, Vancouver, British Columbia:

From Rationing to Ravishing exhibit at Museum of Vancouver, Image from www.museumofvancouver.ca

From Rationing to Ravishing exhibit at Museum of Vancouver, Image from www.museumofvancouver.ca

EMP Museum, Seattle, Washington:

Star Wars and the Power of Costume exhibit, EMP Museum, Image from www.empmuseum.org

Star Wars and the Power of Costume exhibit, EMP Museum, Image from www.empmuseum.org

If you are a lover of all things Star Wars and on the west coast the EMP Museum in Seattle is the first city of 12 to host: Star Wars and the Power of Costume.  The exhibit includes 60 hand-crafted costumes from the first six blockbuster Star Wars films and runs until October 4, 2015.

The McCord Museum, Montreal, Quebec:

Horst: Photographer of Style exhibit, McCord Museum, Image from www.musee-mccord.gc.ca

Horst: Photographer of Style exhibit, McCord Museum, Image from www.musee-mccord.gc.ca

Memorial Art Gallery of the University of Rochester, New York:

Karl Lagerfield dress from Ebony Fashion Fair, Inspiring Beauty exhibition. Image from mag.rochester.edu

Karl Lagerfield dress from Ebony Fashion Fair, Inspiring Beauty exhibition. Image from mag.rochester.edu

Inspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion Fair runs until April 24, 2016 and explores the tremendous influence of Eunice Johnson, publisher of Ebony magazine who was determined to “gain access to the upper echelons of fashion design, which at that time excluded African Americans, resulted in a traveling road show that presented the work of black designers side by side with that of the world’s leading fashion houses.”

Designers represented in the exhibit include: Stephen Burrows, Christian Dior, Christian LaCroix, Bob Mackie, Jean Patou, Nina Ricci, Emanuel Ungaro and Vivienne Westwood.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York:

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China: Through the Looking Glass is a collaboration between The Costume Institute and the Department of Asian Art at the Met and examines the western world’s fascination with the East.  From Paul Poiret to Yves St Laurent fashion designers have been inspired by the silhouettes, fabrics, colours and patterns of China and its ancient culture.  “The exhibition features more than 140 examples of haute couture and avant-garde ready-to-wear alongside Chinese art.”

The exhibit runs just between May and August 16, 2015.

Victoria and Albert Museum, London, England:

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibit, Image from www.vam.ac.uk

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibit, Image from www.vam.ac.uk

If you did not see the Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum you have another opportunity to see it if you will be in London, England this summer.  The exhibition at the Victorian and Albert Museum runs until August.

Whether you stay in the GTA, visit another province or plan a grand European getaway this is the season not only for glorious weather but amazing fashion exhibitions.

Wishing you a fashionable summer!

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