Menaissance

By Dale Peers,

I recently attended a Fashion Group International panel discussion entitled “Menaissance.”  This term moves us on from the previous “metrosexual” to that of gentlemen who take interest in their appearance and in presenting themselves to their audience whomever that may be — business associate, acquaintance, friend or romantic interest.  I like the term very much as it implies a re-birth in being aware of oneself.  If we view it through the lens of the term it is based upon, “Renaissance” I think it also implies that an individual is well-rounded and interested in both the internal and external aspects of the self.  It includes not only the actual fashion that one wears, but the other things a man might do to ensure he “looks the part” of a true gentleman.

And where did we first come by this definition of “masculine elegance”?  The concept is thought to have been espoused by George Bryan Brummel, or, as he was nicknamed, “Beau” Brummel.  Brummel was the trendsetter of fashion in the early 19^th century who counted the then Prince of Wales as a friend.  In this time of the Industrial Revolution society began to see a change in determining one’s status.

Where it had formerly been all about your birthright, e.g. being born the Earl of Sandwich (there really was an Earl of Sandwich and, as an avid gambler who did not want to leave the card table, grabbed two slices of bread and some meat and then, you guessed it, the Sandwich was born) now the measure of a man was based on how successful he was in terms of business.  Wealth and social status could now be created through hard work, not just social privilege.

This was also Beau’s time and he did not relish the idea of having to work hard but felt that his contribution to society would be his fashion sense and his ability to not only set trends but to critique those of other men.  As such his opinion became what mattered to the young men about town who also slavishly followed his fashion.  They came to be ridiculed in the press (it has always been “fun” for the press to lampoon fashion) and were nicknamed “Dandies” or Macaronis (as in “Yankee Doodle went to town riding on a pony, stuck a feather in his hat and called it Macaroni”).

Beau succeeded in setting the stage for fashionable gentleman.  He created a look he referred to as immaculate understatement or masculine elegance which included no longer powdering one’s hair, but to have a good haircut.  And that suits should be tailored to fit (obviously demonstrating one’s wealth in the ability to afford a tailor) and shirts should be pristine white.

An interestingly tied cravat (in fact in Beau’s time gentleman found 64 different ways to tie their cravats!) and highly polished boots or shoes.  The rumor was that Beau achieved the proper shine to his footwear through the judicious use of champagne!

And in this new “menaissance” the concept is a return to this masculine elegance.  As the panelists defined the term, men of today are firmly in touch with their masculinity and take the time for a mani/pedi in addition to a well-timed trip to their barber cum stylist.   They recognize that dressing the part does not ensure success, but it demonstrates to others that you are headed that way.  Confident in your ability, menaissance may also be a visible demonstration of your creativity and problem solving acumen (e.g. which pocket puff will add a bit of whimsy or a touch of urbanity?).

I quietly cheered to hear the panelists call for a return to masculine understatement.  For young men to recognize that looking as though you care about your appearance is not simply a reflection of your personal fashion sense but also a return to the social graces that have been sadly lacking in most workplaces for the last few decades.

The idea of dressing for the occasion means more about dressing than it does about the occasion.  By  that I mean that we recognize different social occasions call for different attire but that does not mean that casual = sloppy.  And, the fashion laziness that seems to have been cultivated in some work places for too long is on its way out.

While the concept of Business Casual (an oxymoron that I still can’t reconcile – business = work and casual = play.  So how can it be work play clothing???) was hard for members of the business community to understand when it was first introduced as an inexpensive perk in the 1990s.  It was also something of a slippery slope.  Dressing in casual khakis and a white shirt degenerated in some minds to jeans and a t-shirt.

Now that we are climbing out of a recession, the idea of casual dressing is one that more of us are questioning.  At the height of economic difficulties folks in financial institutions began to question casual attire as appropriate.  What message does casual attire send?  If your attire is a visual demonstration of your attitude, do you want to be seen as “casual” in regard to your client’s investments?  Or, would you rather be perceived as reputable, concerned, professional?  And, can jeans and a t-shirt give the impression of any of these?

One of the panelists also remembered being with his father and when traveling, going to dinner or an event such as the theatre, the need to dress for the occasion.  So dressing for the occasion now seems to put the emphasis on dressing.  That is, taking the time not only to think about what you will wear but whether it is showing how important the occasion is to you and to the people you will be with.  Dressing in such a way shows respect for those you will meet as well as for yourself.

I don’t think this “menaissance” is going to catch on – I think it is already here. Retail specialists have been looking at the relatively flat sales in women’s fashions and the subtle but steady increase in menswear.  In August, the very first Toronto Mens’ Fashion Week will be held at the Brickworks.  Toronto is the 8^th international city to have a week of fashion dedicated to menswear and its designers.  The event has been christened TOM and, as its founder Jeff Rustia said, TOM is one of the most common men’s names and therefore embraces the idea that TOM will be for every man.  It will celebrate the young as well as mature, ethnically diverse male customer who is a member of this “menaissance”. These dandies will no doubt make Beau proud!