By: Dale Peers
While I have no statistical information or research to back my theory it seems to me that a life of creativity may be an element that might prolong one’s life. A case in point is Canadian fashion designer Ruth Dukas who, at the age of 92 (and this was in 2021), became an ambassador for the Sew & Sew program with Janome and the I Love First Peoples’ Art for Aid project. Remote schools in Labrador and Nunavut have been sent sewing machines and supplies to enhance the delivery of fashion education through fund raising and gifts in kind by both organizations.
Ruth Dukas grew up in Toronto and studied art in preparation for a career in commercial art. With the return of servicemen after the second World War employment was scarce and, being the daughter of a sample-maker, she found her way to the (then) robust fashion district of Spadina Avenue in Toronto. There she found employment producing embroidery designs for women’s fashions.
Photo: Crosier, S. (2016, May 1). Famous designer prefers painting. The Whig. https://www.thewhig.com/2016/05/01/famous-designer-prefers-painting
With the help of her family, she established the Ruth Dukas Embroidery Company in 1952 and in 1962 expanded to dress manufacturing with her new company, Ruth Dukas Ltd. (Mida, 2013). The gowns she created were often one-of-a-kind using beautiful fabrics and sparkling crystals, beads and embroidery.
They were purchased by wealthy, society women at Eaton’s, Simpson’s, Holt Renfrew and The Hudson’s Bay Company across Canada. Her audience extended to stores in Boston, Detroit, New York and Philadelphia. She also ensured that these women would never be embarrassed by appearing at an event in the same dress as another woman by limiting the number of garments created and then selling them in different cities (Crosier, 2016).
Over the course of her career, one might say she has done it all. Ruth not only operated her own manufacturing facility but also opened her own boutique (Ruth Dukas Today) on Eglington Avenue West, worked for other Toronto based designers and retailers as well as supporting the fashion industry through mentoring and teaching fashion students at Sheridan College (Mida, 2013).
When she did decide to retire, she returned to her love of art by enrolling at Queen’s University to study art history. Painting continued to be important to her and she was “commissioned to paint a portrait of Diana, Princess of Wales which she presented to her in 1991. Dukas said Diana liked the portrait but told Dukas, “You made me too glamorous.” (Crosier, 2016).
We are fortunate that the unique, hand embroidered garments Ruth Dukas created have made their way to the Seneca Fashion Resource Centre collection as well as to other institutions such as the ROM, TMU and the Canadian Fashion History Museum. If you want to own a piece of fashion history there are still wonderful examples of her work available on websites such as Poshmark, ebay and etsy.
Ruth Dukas is a wonderful example for those who consider creating to be an essential part in how they define themselves. She has woven the threads of art and fashion through her life’s work.
Garments by Ruth Dukas
Here are examples of her work from the Seneca Fashion Resource Centre.
While not beaded this ensemble (coat and dress) by the designer is made with fabulous colour and the unusual “Broken Ottoman” printed fabric in shades of burgundy, gold, blue and fuchsia. The dress has a low, squared neckline and an empire waist. The bodice is made from the same fabric as the coat and is cut in the centre front in a way that takes full advantage of the distinctive fabric print. The dress is sleeveless but has 1 ½ inch straps. A double layer of fuchsia chiffon creates the lower portion of the dress. It was a one-of-a-kind garment and kindly donated to the Seneca Fashion Resource Centre by the designer.
SFRC Accession Number1-967-15-08322
The white and silver gown has the trademark style details of feminine fabrics and brilliant beading of Ruth Dukas. The bodice with stand-up collar is encrusted with pearls, crystals and bugle beads using silver metallic threads. The long sleeves of bright white chiffon end with the same beading of the cuffs. The wearer’s waistline is highlighted with a sash of white fabric decorated in the centre front with a ribbon bow knot of white chiffon. The full-length skirt portion of the gown is a double layer of the same white chiffon as the sleeves.
SFRC Accession Number1-970-14-07998
The black evening jacket is completed covered with large, black paillettes and bugle beads on an iridescent chiffon. The jacket is collarless and has 2 hook and eye closures in the centre front.
SFRC Accession Number1-965-25-08323
Brightly coloured raw silk in stripes of pink, yellow and green run vertically through the maxi length dress and its long sleeves. In contrast a band of the same fabric has been placed on the lower portion of the skirt with the stripes running horizontally. Clusters of green, brown and gold crystals and beads bisect the dress down the centre front, around the collarless neckline, along the cuffs of the sleeves and the waistline. Another band of beads is situated along the seam that joins the horizontally striped band at the bottom with the main part of the dress.
SFRC Accession Number1-974-16-01682
A gold brocade evening ensemble of top and skirt has amber and pink bugle beads embellishing the flowers in the fabric. The top has a round, collarless neckline (sometimes called a “jewelry” neckline) and sleeves ending just below the elbow (also perfect for displaying the wearer’s bracelet(s)). The long darts running from bust to the hemline of the top provide the tiniest bit of fit. Both the straight skirt and the top are lined in pink. All of the beading was done by hand.
SFRC Accession Number1-973-14-02034
Crosier, Step (2016, May 01) Famous Designer Prefers Painting, The Kingston Whig Standard, https://www.thewhig.com/2016/05/01/famous-designer-prefers-painting
Crosier, Step (2021, April 7) Local Retired Fashion Designer Supports School Sewing Project, The Kingston Wig Standard, https://www.thewhig.com/news/local-news/local-retired-fashion-designer-supports-school-sewing-project
Mida, Ingrid (2013, October 29) Evening Gowns and Canadian Designer Ruth Dukas, Fashion Research Collection, Toronto Metropolitan University, https://www.torontomu.ca/content/dam/fashionresearchcollection/research-articles/Evening_Gowns_and_Canadian_Designer_Ruth_Dukas.pdf